My wife Sue had a bucket list. I am sure everyone has such a list from time to  time. Hers was quite substantial and what’s more she had it for many years-at least as long as I have known her -and we have been married for 38 years. That bucket  was  finally filled recently.

She wanted to do the following; or rather this was the very large and adventurous bucket:

1. Fly a plane-ie the pilot- She never became a pilot as I ran out of money to buy a plane, but she did complete 15 solo flights.
2. Own and ride a motor bike.-Done that, bike has since been sold.
3. Scuba dive- Still active Dive Master and avid photographer
4. SkyDive-Hmmm

The first three she filled comfortably and many years ago but the last eluded her until early June this year when she finally filled that elusive bucket as part of a belated 60th birthday present.

I post some pictures of this awesome event. The bucket is no more! I hate what the next bucket might entail…….

8 August 2014 (09:06PM)

The Kalahari-Flower Trip:

This is is our third annual (family) road trip! Two years ago we did a great trip around Botswana, the famous Sidney Trip. Last year we dod the Richtersveld and Southern Namibia ( The Kokerboom tour) and this year the plan is the Kalaghadi Transfrontier Park. About a month before departure on the planed trip I added three days to add a quick two day visit to the famous Namakwaland flower areas, given the favourable time of year, hence my name for the tour, the Kalahari-Flower tour.

Planning a trip is everything. However expect that some details may be overlooked.

We planned the trip to as much details involved as possible. We spent many evenings on the computer.

We had to get things such as an inverter, base camp tutorials, learn base camp, Audible books, movies, cooler box, car for Gopro, book telephoto lenses, book accommodation, make final payments on Kalahari bookings, having made original bookings almost a year ago.

Reading about the destination is important and also ensuring activities and timing of trips. We planned to take photos of wildlife, landscapes, flowers, star trails etc etc..Enjoy.

9 August 2014 (08:39PM) Departure-Victoria West

We eventually leave on our  Kalahari Flower trip after months of planning. I fee like a log as the flue has  hit me badly. We start the day with a problem as last night when we packed we discovered the new cord for our deep freeze is not working properly, rather try not at all.

The only way out is to delay the journey to buy another cord, freezer or both. We also had forgotten the biltong so our delayed departure is picking up some merit, We duly stop at Sloan Meat Market and buy some some stock of the good stuff and some wors!

We are the first customers at Outdoor Warehouse and would you believe we test two more faulty cords before get a new one that works and phew, off we go, finally leaving the dust of Johburg around 9 30 in overcast and rainy conditions.

We take the N1 to Bloem and soon I realise I am tired and with eyes burning and full of flue medicine  from Dr Hussain. We breakfast at Vrede, fill up some juice ad then hit the road all the way to Colesburg where we have a refuel final stop after an uneventful journey. Sue drives most of the way. Uneventful that is save for the bad accident just outside Kroonstad where a yellow BMW probably had  a burst tyre and looks like two fatalities or seriously injured.

We book into Kingwills Guest House as planned on a very quiet  Saturday night in Victoria West, accommodation is quaint and acceptable. We have dinner at the Merino Restaurant, good Karoo lamb tjops and I also have a lamb liver in net as as starter, nostalgia! We get to bed nice and early.

10 August 2014 (08:58PM) Nieuwoudwille

We have breakfast at 7 30 sharp at the Karoo Deli , all packed up and ready to go.

The scrambled eggs is the worst ever, dry and inedible. The best is the sign in the deli,

NO WIFI-Talk to Each Other!

We have a good roads again pass Loxton, quiet and Carnarvon, also quiet. We fill up at Canarvon. Very little activity on a Sunday morning in this dusty outpost.

We now hit Williston and then Calvinia before we arrive at Niewoudtville, ready for flowers and the bulb capital of the world. The Karoo towns remains remarkably empty even for a Sunday.

We go to Gannaskop and the Kokerboom forest. The latter is great but we find no flowers. We visit the spectacular Nieuwoudtville Waterfalls and   seeing the first flowers. We buy some dried fruit and get told to try Matjiesfontein and Papkuilsfontein. we soon discover why, as at Matjiesfontein we see what all the fuzz is about as the flowers are revealed in all their spectacular glory. we do not get the Matjiesfontein given the time but we travel on to Van Rynsdorp down the escarpment.

We have a quiet night at the Van Rynsdorp Guest House and share a table with two other families. Quite a novel experience, but no other meal options in this small town on a  Sunday night!

11 August 2014 (04:57PM)

We leave after breakfast around 8am in very thick fog, quite despondent that we might not see,  and definitely do not see flowers the next two hours. Thankfully the fog abate around Garies and we start seeing some flowers.

At Kamieskroon we see for ourselves what the rave is all about. Flowers aplenty! We then go onto the Skilpad at the start of the Namakwa National Park and we have a fabulous time for about two hours or so taking photos and some of us even getting prostrate in the process. An intense enjoyable time.

We then move onto Springbok and our next brief interlude at the Goegap Nature Resrve as we enjoy the annual flower parade of nature. Not as good as Kamieskroon. but enjoyable all the same as we take the long road to Pofadder where we fill up, buy local fudge and our final stop at Kakamas for the night. Great day, early night.

12 August 2014 (05:07PM) Twee Riveieren

We make ready to hit the Kalahari today.

We buy our last groceries, biltong, nuts and wors and hit the road for Twee Rivieren around 10pm,  arriving after 1pm where  we meet up with Brother Marius, wife Annette and Johan and Henriette.

I make my last telecom for two weeks and we then go on our first game drive in the Kalahari and we see all the natural wild suspects including two female lion on a hill basking in the late afternoon sun along the Aub valley. We have a braai and a few good ones and also meet Mr Hines, because you are so fine! This is the new “Sydney” high quality well aged brandy  substitute as my readers might remember from previous trips. We thankfully do not get to bed to late! We dream of more lions and raptors and starry starry nights, Vincent.

13 August 2014 (05:17PM) Kieliekrankie

We go on a morning drive where we strike our first  meerkat and some raptors, nothing much more.

Wind has started to build up as we leave for our first Wilderness camp, Kieliekrankie. We have a quiet afternoon game drive and then have a quiet dinner in very windy conditions with no great sunset. Nothing much at the waterhole and no great sunset or good night shooting conditions.Waterhole is quite far away. Views are spectacular though of the desert dunes.

14 August 2014 (05:35PM) Urikuruus Day 1

We have a morning drive and find an old lion on his last legs. Even the mighty must fall I suppose, but this poor fellow is having a miserable time with no certain meal ticket and it shows. We pity him and wonder how long he will last……

We leave after the drive just 40km away for two days at Urikuruus camp. This is arguably the best camp on the trip as the water hole is nearby (50m) and well used by a variety of game. We even try our Go Pro on our remote control car. Little success as we drive into  in a hole. Not so easy is it. We also find the Gopro network has a  limited range and it has its old problem of getting stuck similar to what I experienced at Sodwana.

The waterhole is very active with springbok, kudu, gemsbok, ostrich etc visiting. we also see what must be a giant spotted eagle owl.

We do an afternoon drive, getting to be religion now, see some bateleur and a vulture with a chick. A good day out is celebrated with my first wilderness braai. Mmm Sue ok ?

No big night sigtings except a threesome of bat eared foxes. We have an early  night with nothing further to report.

15 August 2014 (05:43PM) Urikuruus Day 2

It’s Friday today and we take a trip up to Mata Mata in the morning and enjoy all the sights at the various famous waterholes (Dalkeith, Dertiende, Veertiende etc) I must say I find the descriptions as per the great photographic aid  book by Jenny and Mario Fazekas, insightful and most helpful.

I take some great pics of gemsbok fighting and we see the bateleurs again, sadly only rumours  of predators.

We have another great braai and settle in early.

16 August 2014 (08:08PM) Nossob

We leave after breakfast or rather try leaving for Nossob, but we suddenly discover we have a flat battery. Fortunately we find a good Samaritan with number leads after a fruitless attempt to use the solar panels.

It is again a bit windy and we do not see much and the last piece of road is quite bad, the worst so far.

We take some great tawny eagle shots north of Nossob on the afternoon drive as it comes to land with perfect light as we sit at the waterhole. This makes the Nossob trip worthwhile. We visit the hide in the evening with no great shots. We have a braai in very windy conditions and retire early again.

17 August 2014 (08:14PM) Kalahari Tented Camps Day 1

We are on our way back to the Aub again after an early morning drive. We take nice  shots of two bateleur taking off on flight. I also take a far-off shot of a Lanner falcon with prey.

The road is quite long, but we arrive at Kalahari tented camp by lunch time. The camp is nice and we have a few resident golden mongoose.

We do an afternoon drive and light is good with gemsbok and we discover a vulture in nest with chick. We have another braai and take some sunset photos.

That night I hear the call of  hyena!

18 August 2014 (08:28PM) Kalahari tented camps Day 2

We spend another day doing a long morning drive.

Not much action except the normal suspects. It is quite cold and miserable no wider everyone is hiding.

I fill up at Mata Mata. We do another afternoon drive but again no big sightings. We have our last braai.

That night we hear a lion (really big ) roar right next to the tent. This is an experience to remember.

Sue is concerned that we cannot lock the door. She does not close an eyelid.

19 August 2014 (08:31PM) We travel to !Xaus

We do not do a morning drive and alas we have more battery problems. We need to find a cable from an American tourist camper to tow the jeep to a position where we can do another another jump start. They tell us they have had a number of flat tyres but that some friendly South africans have been oat helpful every time. Clearly the battery does not like the inverter that  we used to charge the camera and other batteries.

We make our way slowly down to Kamqua picnic spot to meet our guid to !Xaus lodge. We also meet up with  Team Marius who join us after their stays at Nossob, Gharab, Bitterpan and Kieliekrankie. We in fact passed them two days ago on their way to the latter.

After a very healthy picnic our guide arrives and we depart on the 30km journey over 91 sand dunes. An experience to behold. The jeep again shows his mettle against the Toyotas and we complete the trip without the need for low range.

We have a great night drive and dinner and settle in for the night. On the drive we see spotted eagle owl, brown hyena and spring hare.

20 August 2014 (08:39PM)

Day 1: !Xaus

We go for morning walk and see a good sunrise. We learn more about how to survive in the bush and the most  important vegetation. After breakfast we visit the culture centre where we are introduced  to some of the local bushman-san kraft. We make some purchases to support the local community. The lodge is in the reclaimed area that has been transferred to the san people and the Mier community. These communities are some of the forgotten actors in the unhappy part of history of our country. Hopefully these activities will assist in small way.

We do a game drive the afternoon with a sundowner and a brief sunset.

That evening we have some cake on Marius pending both.-some Hines brandy too!  Again we avoid a late night nicely. It seems we are finally either growing up or getting old.

21 August 2014 (08:44PM) Last day at !Xaus

Team Marius leave after breakfast. We do a dune ride looking for game but the game  remain scarce.

I shoot some star trails and sunsets and also witness a brown hyena and rooi hartbees at the water hole. Exciting stuff.

Another good day, but sadly our last.

22 August 2014 (08:47PM) Departure

Our battery is fine  and we are on our way after breakfast.

We do not see too much as we make our way down to Twee Rivieren where we bid the Kalaghadi adio.

We travel non stop to Groblershoop where we pick up a few things before we head for our night stop at Witsands nature reserve. We witness the white sands, bird hyde and sunset.

Nice place, but we are tired and wanna go home.

23 August 2014 (09:08PM) The last day

We leave about 8 am after I take a few ( not very good) sunrise photos. The trip has been long and we need to get home now. We have Bennie Griessel ( we did all three books on the trip) on Audible to finish so that kills some time. After breakfast at Kimberley we take on the final stretch and arrive in the big smoke around 4pm. We have completed another epic trip and the Jeep Cherokee has done its part battery and all.

I had a great and quality time with wife Sue. Things cannot be better and even took some nice shots.

Some mistakes and needs we discovered despite the meticulous planning.

Stay longer at each Kalahari camp-less travelling. A longer and probably separate stay at in Namakwaland was probably warranted.

We need a second battery for all the auxiliaries, a spot light and a tow cable.

The Gopro car was a disaster, we probably took too many lenses and it would be better to have lighter telephotos with 2 times converter. The tripods are fine for landscapes but the telephoto lenses need a stronger fitting and sturdier tripods.

Well in any in any event, I am almost ready to go on the next trip. The issue is will the Jeep last for a fourth trip? It has given us excellent service.

There are a few really magical places (left) on earth. Kasane must be one of them. It is also one of these places where one can get to shoot (with camera only)  wildlife real easy and from a different angle, ie from a boat. It is quite easy to do that these days as Kasane is the headquarters of a thriving boat and fishing area for both northern Botswana and the Caprivi region of Namibia. In addition Angola, Zambia and Zimbabwe are all very close as the five coutries almost get together in one point. Four of them almost do it anyway.

The morning and specially the evenings are magical boat rides where one can encounter large numbers of big game such as elephants, buffalo, and hippo as well a multitude of other animals (crocs, water buck, impala, giraffe, sable) and it is a hot spot for water birds where the mighty fish eagle reigns supreme. There are  multitudes of herons, kingfishers, jacana, ducks, skimmers, storks and many more. Did I mention the sunsets, unforgettable! This is where the famous amurula sunset was born my friend.

Sue and I spent a third trip recently in this wonderland and we had six great photo safaris. We were joined by our good friend and fellow photo enthusiast Chris. I share some of my shots below to wet your appetites. Oh , I almost forgot, the Chobe flows into the Zambezi at nearby Kazangula and Kasane is only 80km from Vic falls if you care to visit another of nature’s nearby wonders, eat your hearts out! Some more detailed description about this hotspot below.

The Cuando rises in the central plateau of Angola on the slopes of Mount Tembo,^[3] thence flowing southeast along the Zambian border. Along this reach it flows in a maze of channels in a swampy corridor 5–10 km wide (map 1: the border with Zambia is the eastern bank of this floodplain, not the river channel). As with all rivers in south-central Africa its flow varies enormously between the rainy season when it floods and may be several kilometres wide, and the dry season when it may disappear into marshes.

The Cuando continues in its marshy channel across the neck of the Caprivi Strip of Namibia (map, 2) and then forms the border between Namibia and Botswana as it continues southeast. Some 10,000 years ago, the Cuando merged with the Okavango River and they flowed south to Lake Makgadikgadi (which is a seasonal wetland in current times^[4]), but the land in that area was uplifted. As a consequence the Cuando now meets slightly higher ground (map, 4) and breaks up into many channels and swamps (called the Linyanti Swamp) dotted with alluvial islands, nearly disappearing into the Kalahari sands like the Okavango (map, 5). But instead it has diverted east and has been captured by the Zambezi. The flow turns sharply east, still forming the border with Botswana. In the dry season there are few open channels through the swamps and marshes. Beginning at this point it is known as the Linyanti (map, 6), and after it flows through a seasonal lake, Lake Liambesi (map, 7), it is called the Chobe (map, 8). The river then flows into the Zambezi just above the Kazungula Ferry (map, 9).

In years when the Okavango experiences a good flood some of the water escapes east along the normally dry channel of the Magwekwana River into the Linyanti Swamp, thus entering the Zambezi basin. Otherwise the Okavango basin has no outlet.

On the north side of the Chobe River are the Caprivi Swamps, on the edge of which is the ruined capital of the Kololo people who conquered Barotseland in the 19th Century.

So much of the water of the Cuando, Linyanti and Chobe is lost to evaporation in the various swamps that its contribution to the flow of the Zambezi is very small except in occasional years when it floods excessively.

We have done it again! We have just completed another succesful family tour (albeit with a smaller number of tour members) to the Richtersveld and Southern Namibia. I have unilaterally decided to call it the “Kokerboom Tour” (Quiver Tree) in honour of the many majestic succulents we saw along on our way. This follows the highly successful  (if not controversial) Sidney Tour around Botswana in June and July last year.

This year, for some unknown reason we started planning quite late and although we initially wanted to do the Kalahari, we were unable to secure a booking  there and also we  could not all go due to school and other commitments.

Bru Marius suggested the Richtersveld and Southern Namibia and then set about planning and arranging the trip. He also set up the briefing session at Sus Estelle and bru Erik who are Richtersveld veterans and we all assembled (me in awe and horror) listening to the stories of the unique rugged beauty of the Richtersveld, but also heard the bit about the DIFFICULT roads with some trepidation!

We were now only three -(Marius, Wife Sue and me), but with both the Jeep and the Prado. So with schedule developed by Marius we departed on 29 August, slightly late, but on our way.

A taste of the Richtersveld

Day One: All the way to Upington!

This is a tough and long section that took us the best part of ten hours. The going was slow as they are working on the road at the moment. We also were delayed more than an hour at the Wimpy at Vryburg. I ordered a Mixed Grill that could not be mixed. Longest wait ever at a Wimpy. Food not good and cold for most. Wimpy Vryburg will have to brush up their game!

About 30 minutes out of Upington we also had a disaster as Marius had a blown tyre. we had some good practice on how to do it right! all in all a delay of about 30-45 minutes.

We stayed over at the Three Gables the B&B owned by old friends Sonny and Lana Schmidt. Sonny was in Wilgenhof res at Stellenbosch with both Marius and me and we know Lana from when Sonny  worked at Humansdorp and Sue and I lived at Jeffries Bay to many years ago. We had some good ox tail, red wine and opened a new bottle of Sidney. The tour is starting well! (Sidney is very good 12 year brandy  from Fairview Estate for the uninitiated)

Day 2: On the way to the Sendelingsdrift.

Another long day on the road. we drive through Pofadder- a pleasant surprise in overcast weather as a cold front moved on with some unseasonal rain at Upington nogal. We shop at Springbok. I am a bit disappointed with the relative small size of the town and it is  very cold and rainy. We later hear  it even snowed, good one to miss! We take the road to Port Nolloth where we have a brief stop over (decide to give the fish and chips a miss) before we head to Alexander Bay for some brief shopping (seems a bit of a miserable place). We then head up along the Gariep river towards the entry of the Ais-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier park at Sendelingsdrif. We spend the very cold night having a nice braai and some more good red stuff. I have a bad night as I am visited by an unwelcome  stomach bug. Not pleasant, but (barely) surviving.

Day 3: Into the Ricthtersveld proper

Feeling a bit worse for wear we start on our trip to Tatasberg, our next stop. We first go to Pootjiespram, but on the way Marius is the Good Samaritan and takes some photos at a nice scenic spot of a group of fellow travellers. We travel on in convoy and the next moment Marius makes a hasty U- turn and charges back on the slow road. He shouts worriedly that he left his glasses on the bonnet of one of the other traveller’s  cars. He disappears from sight as we also turn to look if it perhaps  dropped off along the road. We miss PootjiesPram, damn!

We catch up with Marius and he has luckily found his glasses. One of his subjects thought it belonged to one of their friends. Shu, what a relief! We proceed through the rugged stunning scenery of arid rock desert. We first do Halfmenspas  a medium mountain pass with the famous Halfmens succulents in evidence. Then we have another stop at “The Hand of God” a print of a large hand on the granite  rock.

We then do the Akkedis Pass, slowly! We also hit our first kokerboom-quiver tree, magnificent plants. It is getting better and better. The road is winding and the going is slow but doable. No low range required yet. We stop often to take photos.

The road gets worse and I take a wrong turn along a river bed and have to manoeuvre like crazy through huge boulders with Sue needing to get out to direct. We pick up a small scrape on the Jeep from a brute of a boulder, but we make it. We do lose time however and Marius comes back to look for us. We finally arrive after almost 8 eight hours on the road doing only 90km! Tatasberg camp along the Gariep is about as remote as you want to be. There are only 4 huts served by renewable wind and solar energy with some generator backup. We unilaterally decide over the fire enjoying the quiet and scenery that we will take it easy the next day and not do another  long drive. ( Nas mas!)

We have some good chicken and sausage and some more good red stuff. Marius plays a lot of music and notably the theme song of the Sidney Tour, Pavarotti’s famous Fils the Regiment and again striking his 9 wonderful high c’s. Wow it is best heard at Tatasberg am Gariep! I shoot some star trails and the stars they are magnificent, reminding me about my first trip in the Richtersveld in April 2000 when we slept along the Gariep banks at night in sleeping bags during our 4 day family kayak trip, very happy memories.

Day 4: Tatasberg

We wake up late and laze around. We take some early morning photos along the Gariep. We are alone soon as the other visitors leave. We get ready for the day trip. We take a path up a dry river bed, pass a huge boulder and some magnificent views. we end up against the mountains with some lonely, wait for it kokers/quivers. Marius and I climb the mountain to get a better view from the top. Sue gets our throw-away braai ready for our steak rolls. We have a great meal and make our way back to base camp. We have more of the same that night, ie braai, music and star trails. Bliss is near as we fall asleep with opera.

Day 5: Kokerboomkloof and Helskloof

We have a long day ahead as we want to catch the last sites of the Richtersveld. It takes us another sold eight hours on the road. We only have a brief stop for lunch, taking care of the left overs that is. We visit some stunning view points and kokerboomkloof before we tackle Helskloof. This one just goes on and on, but the vistas remain stunning. We run into the first goat herds, at last evidence of the local Namas that are resident in the Richtersveld. ( We also find some Namas in Bakkies). The vegetation is distinctly different now and is more lush and it is clear why the goats and sheep are fat and thriving.

We arrive at Sendelingdrif and we have our last braai and some more of the good stuff. The Richtersveld has been conquered.

Day 6: Fish River Lodge

We leave early clearing immigration and taking the ferry across to Namibia. This is effortless and only a pleasure. Two elderly German speaking couples also stayed at Sendelingsdrif and cross with us. We hit Rosh Pinah for a brief visit, everything nice and clean. The C and even the D roads are better than many tar roads. We arrive just after lunch at the Fish River lodge on the west side of the Fish River Canyon, the second largest canyon on earth.

The German couples also book into the Lodge. They had a puncture on the one car and need a new tyre as the spare is one of these small temporary ones. They eventually find one (telephonically) at Rosh Pinah with the help of the lodge management. They now needed to  find someone to bring it to Fish River Lodge.

We do a walk along the edge of the canyon and a sundowner drive capturing a wonderful sunset gazing over the magnificently eroded gorge. We have a good dinner at the lodge while I do some more, guess what-start trails. Did I mention the wind. The escarpment has a constant strong wind that blows lots of cool air and made us tuck in deeply under the blankets in the rooms with the most spectacular of views.

As we finish dinner we run into one of the German couples, the one that did not have the puncture. We enquire (politely) about progress on the new tyre. It still is a problem and unclear how it will actually arrive at the lodge. We suggest that perhaps the two men  should go and fetch it with their car. We are quite flabbergasted by the response.

” We are not really that good friends”!

Kokerboom sunset

Day 7: Wild horses and sand storms

We leave after breakfast the next day and first hit Aus and the Garup spring on the edge of the Namib desert where we visit the wild horses of Garup. Not a happy site as it is very dry and it seems as if the oryx/gemsbok are giving the poor horses a hard time. Horses definitely looking all the worse for wear and definitely not in good shape.

We cross the semi desert that increasingly becomes proper desert. We hit a serious sand storm and arrive in Luderitz in heavy wind where we book into the Nest-good rooms.

We have been savouring some fish and crayfish and quickly decide to hit the Penquin (the Nest restaurant). Sadly, we are bitterly disappointed. The abalone is very tough and inedible and the crayfish was not cleaned properly and too small. We get a credit but still leave disappointed although some ice cream and Crepe Suzette sweetened matters.We hit bed time and listen to the heavy seas beating on the rocks below. Still windy!

Day 8: Kolmanskop and Dias Point

We visit the old and now abandoned diamond capital of the Sperr Gebiet. We relive the wonderful days of August Stauch and other diamond entrepreneurs. We spend about two hours taking photos of antiquity and the buildings contest with the encroaching desert. The spirit of man and the wonders that money can do is clearly in evidence. Oh yes and Sue has a bath in the desert!

We then pay a visit to Diaz point where we meet Aunt Regina Korf who serves us 18 oysters and many stories of her exploits in Namibia and Angola as a nurse. A treasure trove of stories and a good stop altogether.

We then visit the Diaz coffee shop and the carrot and cheese cake is highly recommended. We catch up on emails and then leave for dinner at the Bayview Hotel (Aunt Regina’s Son is the owner). Sadly the crayfish is even  smaller. We finish the day off with more Crepe Suzette at the Penquin. Generally dining out in Luderitz is not highly recommended.

Day 9: Canon Road House

We get up early and Marius and I climb another mountain to photograph the Felsenkirchen and the early morning view of the town. We leave after breakfast, but first visit the site of the proposed Diaz wind farm (arranged by special permit into the diamond area). We see the measuring mast and can report the site has wind. I am involved in the project, hence my interest.

We head east across the desert and stock up in Aus before we end up at the Canon Road House around 2pm. What a delightful stop! The Amarula tart is to die for while you can click away for hours in this time warp.

We arrive at the Canon Lodge around 4 30. It has a wonderful setting amongst the rocky hills. We have a walk up the nearby hill, enjoy another spectacular sunset and dinner and then I do my last star trails. Marius and the last of Sidney keep me company. We work on some new business ideas, life is perfect and solutions abound under the universe of stars.

Sunset at Canon Lodge

Day 10:  Back to Three Gables

We wake up early and get underway to Upington. We first visit the East View Point of the Canyon and then the briefly the warm water resort of Ais-Ais. We cross the border and arrive at Three Gables where we are met by Sonny and Lana. Sonny does some nice fillet and we kill the last three bottles of red wine done and dusted. We reminisce about the old days and catch up about old friends and long list times. We watch a rerun of the test where we trounce the Walabies 38-12-good one. Some guys do not make it to the end.

Day 11: The long road back

We drive back the eight hours to Johburg. No incident but we are tired after 4000km. This trip was actually longer than the Sidney tour. Enjoy the pictures and the memories. A trip well made and well recommended.

Various star trails shot on the Kokerboom Tour

at war

bearded man

at war

Bearded Giant

Cape Vulture landing

Our recent holiday in Botswana (some posts ago)has become a distant memory.   To refresh your memory I have prepared some collages   making these visions more permanent vestiges in the cobwebs of the mind. This may also lighten your day, put some smiles back and help us to deal with the many curve balls life throws at us.

As described earlier we (Sue and I) were recently priviledged to witness larges volumes of game at secluded water holes. Etosha as described  is a wonderful opportunity to shoot volumes of animal at a waterhole drinking but also dusting themselves, playing, interacting and hunting! Below are some collages of my recent experience with Coetzer Nature Photography Team.

Light is bright, colors sublime and activity rife. Enjoy!

Zebra interaction

Animal Collage (2)

Sue and I recently undertook a photo safari to Etosha with Coetzer Nature Photography led by Lou and Veronica Coetzer.

Elephant Herd at Kameeldoring Water Hole

I have always yearned to do Etosha, but somehow we have never gotten round to go there. Nevertheless we were picked up in Windhoek by Fritz on 31 August where we met our four fellow travelers and photographers, Jacques, Rona, Karen and Karl. We were on our way to Etosha for six days. Windhoek to Etosha takes about 6 hours with various biltong and coffee stops. We arrived at luxury Onguma Lodge tented camp around 3 30pm where we met our hosts for the week, veteran nature photographers Lou and Veronica Coetzer.

We settled into the comfortable rooms and met around a welcome warm fire over a drink for our welcome briefing after which we have a delightful dinner before getting into bed as an early rise was in the offing (430) as Lou wanted us in the vehicles by 5 15. He expected a lion sighting…

We were in the park at 5 45 and then traveled to Mushuru the first water hole. This is a hole not frequented by the general public and a special permit had to be applied for. Just before the hole we saw two lions in the veld. We hastily prepared for the anticipated lion shoot a few hundred yards further down the road although furtively glancing over our shoulders as some off us moved to the other vehicle. Lou had specially prepared two vehicles for three photographers each in addition to him and Veronica in the two front passenger seats respectively. Every photographer has his station behind his mounted camera and long lens. The seats are comfortable and one is able to swivel probably at least 150 degrees horizontally and about 120 degree vertically (my guess). This is world class and unique and the first time that the the vehicles were used. (We were the third group though). The idea was based on what they have been doing with great success at Chobe.

In any event in the meantime Sue and I received rapid introduction to Nikons  (we are Canon guys!) while the vehicles were positioned at the water hole. Suddenly we saw that there were two remaining lions at the water hole. It was not yet sunrise so life was not perfect (for a photographer), but good enough to suddenly have rapid fire from the two vehicles. The two lions also gave us a show by staging a play fight and now it was rapid fire, wow. Suddenly it went quite as they departed, but what a way to start a safari. The waterhole was empty as the king departed. After taking in some liquids and breakfast we watch as the rest of the day unfold, we see a multitude of birds, guinea fowl, doves , kori bustard, ostrich, quillea and others. We also witness a hunt by the small gabber goshawk. Then the springbok arrive followed by eland, zebra, oryx and kudu. The show has begun as a never-ending stream of animals come to quench their thirst. No other predators save for a few jackals. The zebra are quite playful after drinking water and give a great show of necking while we fire away rapidly. We spend the morning there till we depart at around 10.

Springbok and eland

The afternoon we go to a second hole called Kameeldoring. Here the bigger animals seem to visit notably giraffe, rhino  and elephant. In addition there are a number of bateleur and two species of vultures. A scull face duck family have made the hole their home together with  12 small chicks. On our first visit we see limited elephant action as we probably arrive too late. We are back at the lodge after six and have dinner at seven after which we quietly dive into bed , quite exhausted.

Lions at Mushura

Zebra necking

The next day we have the same  routine. We only see no lion at Mushuru, but we see large quantities of game.  At Kameeldoring we see three large herds of elephants some lonely bulls and one white and two black rhino. The number of elephants including a large number of young made for some anxious moments. The highlight was the black rhino and white rhino greeting each other as we prepare to leave! A lot to talk about over dinner.

Eland drinking

The third day was again the same routine and we had even more game at both holes. In the morning we also have giraffe at Mushuru. Notable was the number of elephants again at Kameeldoring, but also a much fine bateleur action. I was now shooting with the 200-400mm lens after the 500mm the two previous days; both with 1,4 converters. I learn to shoot at higher ISO to maximize my shutter speed to avoid soft shots. The difficult one to manage is depth of field as once more than one animal is in the fray depth of field is required and that means higher F numbers. Al lot to remember while you focus on “seeing” good shots.

Bateleur landing

Elephant having dust bath

The last day most of us sleep in although Karen and Karl go off with Veronica. Lou, Jacques and I witness the sad end of the Shark road in the Super 15. What an expected disappointment!. Lets go and rather shoot photos. The afternoon we do a drive around as the public do and see very little as we were spoiled for the week. However towards the end we hit a cheetah kill, but there are about ten vehicles which makes good shooting of the kill next to road in the grass a bit difficult. We cannot position for the right light as we did at the water holes!

We go to a “public” waterhole near Namutoni  and find about fifteen vehicles. There is quite a bit of activity of giraffe and hyena and then suddenly a den of about fifteen hyenas appear and provide us with some wonderful shots in a fading light. Some of us shoot at 6000 ISO at slow speed. Wow what a day but sadly it is all over now. On the way back we see a leopard crossing the road (our second one for the week). Who can complain?

Hyena troop

We have another delightful dinner and go to sleep content with the week’s work. I shot 4000 photos and Sue probably 2000. We hardly had time to sort and select and no time to edit. That will have to wait, especially as Lou has introduced us to his proven system using Photo Mechanic and Nikon Capture NX. [Lou the photos in this piece was done using your system] The next day is the sad good bye and the long road back. Thank you Lou and Veronica for a wonderful experience, tiring, but highly enjoyable. To crown it all good friends have been made. What happens next?

Zebras drinking

June 29-Anxiety

So I arrived back from Berlin at 8 in the morning. The flight is an hour late. Immigration takes another thirty minutes . I am very late.  I have to catch the Gautrain back (Sandton) near to the office where my Jeep is parked. Problem is this Jeep needs a registration paper my wife Sue informed me yesterday. I have to get to a police station and make a sworn  affidavit that I have lost my Jeep registration paper. Then off to the License Authorities to procure a  new paper. Without the new paper I cannot take the jeep out of the country and…

Tomorrow we leave on an eleven day family tour of Botswana. The tour is with my brother Marius and sister Estelle. The hotel kids from the Royal Hotel have not had  a holiday together for donkeys years. Planning for the tour commenced in October. Originally it would have been Marius, his middle daughter Linda , Estelle, hubby Erik and their two sons Carel and Rikus. Sue and I are the late joiners or “Gate Crashers”. Estelle and Erik have meticulously planned an extensive trip all around Botswana and everything has been pre-planned. We cannot miss this unique opportunity to bond, not to speak of the many photo opportunities!

I miss the train and have to wait another 20 minutes. Fortunately my loyal assistant Indira awaits me to get me to the office fast. I explain my predicament. I rush home to get the papers and then off to the Douglasdale police station. No queues, off to Randburg. I arrive there at 10:45! The door is closed! It is the end of the financial year. No new papers today. If only the flight was not delayed in London….

I go dejectedly on to our restaurant (DWEleven-13) to meet wife Sue and son Marthinus with daughter Ronelle and share the bad news. I decide to try the Post Office as an alternative. Ronelle phones other license departments. All to no avail!  Sue rushes home with Ronelle to try finding the papers again. What on earth happened to the damn papers? I say goodbye to Marthinus. He is leaving soon on the Ultimate Braaimaster and we will not see him again before we get back (if we leave), but that is another story!

After struggling for parking at two post offices it turns out that what I need is not possible. It is almost 2 o’ clock, I still need to collect my rented 600mm lens in Pretoria, pack and well what if we cannot find the papers? I phone Indira on the way to Pretoria;  What about a rental vehicle? I stop at Village Walk and find out both rental companies have no 4x4s available.

I phone Marius to tell him my predicament, he is busy and cannot talk. Sis Estelle suggests I try the Pretoria licensing department. Ronelle informs me they are closed as well. All this as I battle the traffic on my way to Outdoor Photo in Pretoria to collect the 600mm. -A big brute, not sure if I can handle it, but I want to try, cannot wait, but will I have a chance?

Indira phones, she has found a 4×4 at Avis. I ask if they can keep it for collection by 7pm- A light at the end of the tunnel. Sue phones, she has found papers for the Jeep, but the registration number is not the same. She is going shopping. When I arrive I have a  good look at the papers. I rack my memory, what happened here. The registration papers are clearly different but it is clearly the same car and the same owner. I vaguely think the other registration may have been the temporary plates. I decide we are OK. I tell Indira to keep the 4×4 in reserve and we may collect later on Saturday if we are blocked at the border. On that plan I decide it is a GO and start packing!

June 30 –Departure-Sidney strikes

We awake with a jolt at 5:45. Only got to bed after 11, having packed and sorted the photo equipment. Sue ask me what time we are meeting at Pretoria Petroport. I am confident it is 7 30 although a small voice says maybe it was 6:30! We load up and then I get call from Marius, where are you guys.! Got to move now, we leave just before 6 30.

The team eventually agree now to meet at Kranskop Wimpy outside Bella Bella where we enjoy a warm welcome over a typical enjoyable Wimpy breakfast. Everyone is fit and healthy and there is a quite an undertone of excitement. Lets get going. The Road to Vaalwater slows us down with roadworks but then we are clear and on the old road to Ellisras (now Lephalale). We pass Bulge Rivier and it brings back happy memories of thirty-six years ago when I met good wife Sue. Not time to go in and see the dam though. We need to get to the border and bury a demon!

We fill up at Lephale and head for the Stockpoort border. We hand in the papers for the cars and have a painless pass! We leave SA as we cross the narrow bridge. Let the adventure continue. We hit the first gravel road but  it is in excellent condition.

At Malapaye we stock up for the planned braai tonight. We hit Serowe and Lentswe lodge at 5 30. We are met by Jeremy who shows us to our rooms. Not great but adequate. Jeremy promises to have the fire going at 6 30. We get ready for the braai.

After a couple of beers and a bottles of wine, Marius introduces us to Sydney, 12 year old 38% proof of original SA brandy named after Sydney Back. The rest is shall we say history, headaches and all.  I have more details of Sydney, the team and trip map below. We have covered the first 590 km!

The ultimate one!

Sydney Back!  I love you Long time!

 Rich, golden hue. Delightful nose of rose, honey, honeysuckle, dried peach, apricot and range of nuts. Distinct sweet tobacco hints with tea and cinnamon. Smooth in the mouth, warming sensation, long genteel finish.

Accolades: Gold – International Wine & Spirits Challenge 2008
Blend Information: 100% Chenin Blanc
Characteristics: Type : Fortified
Food Suggestions: After a good meal in the company of close friends.
Technical Analysis: Alcohol: 40.0 %vol, Appellation: Coastal
Winemaker: Alicia Rechner

Day 1

From left to right, Marius, Linda, Erik, Estelle,Sue,Clive,Rikus and Carel

Top of Form

July 1: On the road to Nata

We move just after 6. It is a big day today as we hope to hit the pan. We have breakfast along the way. A few cows charge across the road as we leave. We are in Botswana. After Lekthlakane we go off-road the first time, slowing down progress  and soon hit the Makgadikgadi pans. The road varies between sand, stone and flat pans. We head for Kubu island. It is a wonderful experience to feel the silence on the granite outcrop covered by baobabs and a mystery pink barked deciduous tree. We enjoy a quiet hour exploring the vicinity.

No we have the hardest part of the pan to do after some smooth flat pan riding. The road is only two tracks with a grassy “middelmannetjie”. The tracks are sandy the “midelmannetjie” is high, the going is slow and arduous. We take over three hours for about 100km only. Total trip for the day is about 400km. Tough day! We arrive at comfortable accommodation at Nata Lodge and settle down to a good dinner. The curry was superb! We need an early night after last night.

Day 2

July 2: The Road to Kasane

We get on the road around 8 30. No birds at the bird sanctuary so we press on for Kasane. Sue and I turn around after 60km as she left her feather cushion behind. Realizing how much time we will lose we turn around and abandon the cushion. Sorry Sue. We have a hot dog braai using Sue’s disposable braai and arrive at Kasane on  the Chobe around 2pm. We book into the Old House on the banks of Chobe and arrange a boat trip at 3pm. We enjoy the wonderful animal and bird life from  a very close range as well as an “amurula” sunset. We have dinner at the Old house. The troops are into bed early, still nursing Sydney.

Amurala Sunset

Day 3

July 3: Kasane and Vic Falls

The rest of the team go across the Zim border and have a wonderful day at Vic falls while Sue and I have a lazy day in Kasane. We go and check out Pangolin Photo safaris and meet Guts Swanepoel and partner Kirsten. All set for tomorrow. We arrange a boat and have another wonderful boat safari, only the two if us. I have the 600m on the tripod. We spend almost an hour with a fish eagle sitting in the grass.

That evening we compare notes with the Vic Falls team. Dinner is again at Old House. We drink our own wine and then introduce “Baas Jack” afte we kill the last of Sydney. Some of us come second in this race , but we have a great party and long enough to usher in Estelle’s birthday. Some people start smoking and even some Cigars are floated…A good time was had by all and some had a very good time….complete with hangovers and headaches.

Fish eagle angling

July 4: Kasane, a birthday  and a man in the wilderness

This is Estelle’s birthday. We set off early to meet Guts and their Unimog, hoping first to see the Pel’s owl that was spotted near their house. We sadly fail but have a nice walk along the river. We are off into Chobe game reserve in the Unimog. We end up spotting a  leopard female and two cubs. We also see the last remains of an elephant with the vultures and marabou stork confirming the last rites. Some of us have a hard time and gets a midday snooze.

Marius meanwhile takes a wrong road in the game reserve and almost gets stuck and lost. Fortunately he and Linda makes it without getting terminally stuck. They survive the wilderness, but almost miss the photo safari.

The afternoon we all go the photo safari with Guts and his team. A good time was had by all and we hopefully have natured some photographers! Even “Mr 600” enjoyed it. Chobe is  blisss. The evening we hit the Chobe Game Lodge for a buffet dinner. A bit of low point, but what the heck amid all the fun who cares…

Leopard with cub!

July 5: On the road again, Caprivi, Epopo falls and Drotskys

We travel early the morning around 6 30 towards the border. We have a long 500km trip ahead through the Caprivi region. We cross the border at Ngoma. What lovely baobabs on the Botswana side! We have a good hearty breakfast at Katimo Mulimo. This is Marius’ day as he was here on border duty in the late seventies. He tells us about what it was like in those (bad) old days. We also pass the newly built Caprivi link HV DC line, built by Nampower and advised by my firm ( Fieldstone). We visit the very  low fall Epupo Falls and cross the border again at Mohembo. We buy some meat at Shakawa and carry on to our overnight spot at Drostkys Cabins on the banks of the Okavango in the panhandle. That evening we have a braai of note and we are introduced to the Master/Lord  of the High Cs (Pavarotti) by Marius. We sing along to the majestic La fille du régiment, Act 1: “Ah! mes amis, quel jour de fête!”by Donizetti . We have a late night listening to our favorite pop music and having some good wine. Marius introduces the Belvenny to our selection to great aplomb! We end up quite late but at least to good music.

Epopo Falls -No fall at all

July 6: Maun and flying with Eagles

Early morning we are up again and on the river at 8 am for an early morning boat ride –a great sunrise. We see giant kingfisher, fish eagle  and otter-All very pleasurable. Soon we hit the road again and also the worst road in Botswana-potholes galore. We eat on the run and get to Maun by 2 30 despite the bad roads.

We then re-arrange our flight schedule and at 4PM we take off in two Cessna 210s for a 45 minute   flight over the Moremi and swamps. A good time was had by all, but Sister Estelle brings back  a “present”in the paper bag  curtsey of a sudden dive. We take some photos and movies. Great fun!

The evening we have a good braai at Audi camp.  Another successful day. Audi is great choice to stay as the tented accommodation is very good and they throw in a good breakfast to boot!

Eagles over Moremi

July 7: On a mokoro in the swamps

Early morning after breakfast we are off on a two hour drive into the Moremo to the mokoro station. The road is slow and bumpy. We get to the station and without much ado we get into the four mokoros and off we go for about 90 minutes after which we walk for two hours and then have lunch.  Sue decided to sit this one out so I am on my own in the mokoro.  Our seats are quite wet as the mokoros leak a bit. Fortunately we do not sink and we only have wet pants to show. We see elephant, zebra, giraffe, egrets and fish eagle. Another wonderful day in nature and an evening braai again at Audi. All is well in paradise.

Mokoro in Moremi

July 8: Heading for Planet Baobab

The next day we head out after 10 30 towards Xai pan and Baines Baobabs. Baines painted the baobabs 150 years ago and apparently they look exactly the same now as then. We have a delightful lunch and then head off to Planet Baobab. This is a quint funky guest house with good food and a great feel in a forest of baobabs. Well worth the stop over. The bar takes you back to Johannesburg in the fifties with all the Drum pictures against the wall. That evening we shoot sunsets and star trails after a good dinner.  Erik and I polish a quiet bottle of good vino as we learn to shoot star trails.

Planet Baobab

July 9 : A day in the pan, art and all.

This ends up being the longest day as we leave around seven after breakfast. We first hit Greens’s baobabs, then Chapman’s seven sisters after which we hit the veterinary  fence  and a locked gate. The guard and his huts are empty. We meet with a lone ranger in a Toyota FJ. he whizzed passed us earlier but now he is low on fuel. Good luck buddy. No fuel in Gweta.   We have to retrace ours steps and reroute over Kubu island.  We eat on the run, but have time for a cricket game and a group photo. Along the way Sue and I stop for some art photos as well…

We arrive quite late at Rhino Khama and have a dinner serving the last rites on the Belvenny.

July 10: Heading for home, sadly

We have an early morning game drive hoping to see rhino, but nada! So we head for home. We painfully cross back into the Republic at Marins Drift. We have lunch at Kasane, reluctant to break the bond that has has kept us together for eleven blissfull days. We drive  back pondering the high points or High Cs. Here is my take:

1. Lentswe Lodge, Meeting Sydney.
2. Lekhubu Island
3. Old House blues-meeting Jack Daniels
4. Game Drive with leopards
5. Chobe River photo shoot
6. Drotskys Cabins
7. In the Moremi on a mokoro
8. Baines Boababs and Planet Baobab
9. A day in the pan with some art to follow

For the record, we covered 3 700km (wow) and taken probably about 5000 photos. Sue and Clive  took about 2800, many duds though!

Any other thoughts?

Definitely  to thank all tour members for their memorable contribution and to recommend the country Botswana, its people, wonderful scenery and incredible wild life to all prospective and returning visitors. Lets do it again!

In full cry!

All the worst for Sydney

Final Day